What do you think of when you think of mods?
Is it the scooters? The roundel? The parkas? For us it’s a classic three button suit! In the first edition of Mod Monday’s Mood boards we’re going to be delving into the history of this unique arrangement and why it should be a staple in your mod-closet.
History of the three button suit
In the late 19th century, the lounge suit became the primary form of dress for most men. Along with this came the Edwardian inspired three button suit, made popular in England and soon adopted by the French ‘Dandies’. In the early 20th century however, the more contemporary style of the ‘three roll two’ was established. It was soon replaced by the two button style in the 20s due its sportier appearance.
Now how does an early rendition of a lounge suit become the iconic 3 button suit that young mods of the 60s and onwards latched onto so devotedly? Well it all has to do with the Italian tailored suits of the 20s. Due to the Mediterranean heat, Italian suits featured little to no padding which gave them a less structured silhouette. Often being made of lighter fabrics such as seersucker and linen, these suits commonly consisted of lighter pastel colours. Whilst American and the UK moved towards 2 button jackets with more traditionally structured shapes to maintain the ‘sporty’ look of the lounge suit, Italian tailors paved the way for the 3 button suit which would be worn by mods for decades to come.
Introduction to the UK
In the UK after World War II, a surge of British teenagers began splurging on clothes, forming subcultures such as the Rockers, Teddy Boys, Beatniks, and most importantly, Mods! Taking inspiration from an amalgamation of 20s Italian tailoring, their beatnik predecessors, and the growing modern jazz scene in and around London, Mods established themselves as one of the pioneering youth subcultures. The Mods adorned themselves in three button suits, button down shirts, and Beat boots all with undertones of British teenage attitude. Carnaby street became the home of all things swinging with shops such as Lord John, His Clothes, and Domino Male and continued to be into the 21st century.
Mod Revival and the birth of Sherry's!
The mid-late 70s saw a resurgence of the Mod subculture (primarily as a result of the film ‘Quadrophenia’ in 1976) alongside Punks, Goths, Rude Boys, and many more. Bands such as The Jam and Secret Affair made Mods a prominent role in pop culture again, with their consistent performances on the TV show ‘The Old Grey Whistle Test’. In 1979, Sherry’s London opened its doors at 17 Ganton Street and began selling our iconic three button suits to young mods, most notably Paul Weller.
How to wear your three button suit
The three button suits sharp and iconic silhouette has made a lasting impact on the Mod subculture as well as its many offshoots. Fabrics can range from linen to tweed, with the early mods preferring mohair. Tonic or two tone cloth became synonymous with the 3 button suit however Mods would flock to anything as long as no one else had it! Due to the versatility of the suit, it can be dressed up with a button down shirt and silk tie, or dressed down with a pair of jeans. Ties were kept in keeping with the colours of the suits, were often Italian made and were most likely self tipping. This means that the two ends of the tie are made with the same fabric as its shell, ensuring quality all the way through.
Another tie which is popular with the mod style is the knitted tie. This is made with a textured feel and knitted look, blunted at the end to create a rectangular look. These ties are slimmer, and so fit around the collar better whilst also making it easier to get a symmetrical knot. In more contemporary styles such as the early 2000s indie scene, the 3 button suit continued to rein supreme with acts such as the strokes sporting their 3 button jackets with graphic tees, distressed denim, and converse.
Mood board
We’ve put together a mood board, showcasing the origins of the 3 button suit as well as styled examples throughout its time as a go-to piece!
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